For the sixth consecutive year, Iginio Massari has earned the gold medal from Italian food and wine magazine Gambero Rosso’s “2017 Bakers&Bakeries Guide.” He’s especially famous for his panettone, so much so that it’s usually already sold out from his online shop by the beginning of December. If you aren’t among the lucky few to snag one of his, here are some tips that the famous Brescian pastry chef has shared to choose a good panettone. No more wasting time picking dry raisins and rubbery candied fruit out of your slice!
Want to pick the right panettone? Don’t judge a book by its cover.
“There’s no magic trick to recognizing a good panettone. The only solution is to taste it,” he explains. “Its appearance only makes a difference to a certain degree: the panettone should be very soft, but that also makes it an extremely delicate product to transport. So, if you buy a panettone at a bakery and bring it home in the car, take special care when driving so the king of Christmas desserts doesn’t get knocked around. If, on the other hand, you buy the panettone online, be forgiving: shipment may cause some damage. Only cutting into it will convince you of your purchase: the color inside, the scent of orange peel – the one grated into the dough, not the candied one – and the softness will reveal the panettone’s true value.”
Sweetness is measured by the panettone’s yellow hue
“Those who work conscientiously use eggs with deep yellow yolks, which means that the hens have been fed corn.” Iginio Massari – whose Pasticceria Veneto has earned 95/100 points on Gambero Rosso's ranking – explains that yellow is a sign of sweetness. A yolk with a paler color, leaning toward white, will give the panettone a taste more similar to bread and the original recipe. In fact, historically panettone was nothing more than a fancy bread, served to nobles during a time when sugar was exchanged for the same price as silver.
An amaretto crust, which sometimes enhances the panettone even more, is certainly a valuable element, as long as it’s balanced well.
Otherwise, it would be better to opt for a simpler version, to avoid only tasting almond and not the complexity of the crust’s flavors. And as for raisins and candied fruit (either you love them or you hate them), they’re fundamental:
“California raisins are the ideal variety; better to avoid the Turkish ones. The candied orange peel should be in whole strips, not purchased already cut into cubes; the pieces should be chopped only when ready to be used, so they don’t lose their fragrance.” Finally, the last ingredient on which you mustn’t compromise is the butter: “Even the lowest quality butter will always provide a better result than the best margarine.”
by Alessia Calzolari
