Just six ingredients — the rest is down to practice. Every day Fabrizio Bertola, pastry chef at Villa d’Este in Cernobbio, the Como Lake’s crown jewel, changes the recipe for his most sought-after dessert, unheard of elsewhere. In fact, Bertola’s soufflé is a fixed presence on the menu, but it can change aroma, from chocolate to vanilla, and so on.
Here, the pastry chef shares the chocolate version with us, including the secrets he reveals to those who attend his chef’s table cooking classes - lucky you!
(ph Franco Pizzochero, courtesy of Villa D'Este)
Now, just follow the pastry chef’s directions to reach your goal: an apotheosis of flavor and emotions that only chocolate can give!
“For 8 mini soufflés, first bring 2 cups milk to a boil. Meanwhile, combine a dough from 1 cup of all-purpose flour (use gluten-rich self-rising flour) and the same amount of butter; combine with the milk and cook over low heat, stirring constantly in the same direction until the mixture stops sticking to the sides. Remove from the heat and set aside for a few minutes to cool. Once cool, add 10 medium egg yolks at the same time, still stirring, until a smooth batter is obtained, then add 3 Tbsp. cocoa powder. This base batter can be prepared in the morning and chilled in the refrigerator throughout the day. About an hour before baking, whisk the egg whites until they are not quite firm, then add to the base, folding in gently from bottom to top. At this point, have the molds ready: greased and dusted with granulated sugar. Then place 1⁄4 cup 70% cacao baking chocolate in each one and cover with the batter until 3⁄4 full. Place in an oven that’s been preheated to 425°F for 12 minutes, preferably with the fan off as too much ventilation will compromise the soufflé. Do not open the oven during baking. Serve immediately. This is easier at home – less so when you have to serve 100 people at once. I like to serve it with ice cream to create a pleasant hot/ cold contrast — in this case, vanilla.”
Text: Fiammetta Fadda
Article originally published on La Cucina Italiana print magazine #2
