Polenta taragna, made with buckwheat, is a typical dish from Valtellina. The name comes from the word tarai, the stick used to constantly stir the polenta to keep it from sticking to the bottom of the pot, an irremediable error. Long ago, the polenta cooking in poor families’ kitchens was black because it was made exclusively with buckwheat flour. The result was a very nutritious dish, but with very strong taste. Those who could afford it added a little cornmeal to soften the impact on the palate, thus creating the recipe as we know it today.
Buckwheat flour
Unlike “blonde” cornmeal polenta, taragna has a decidedly darker color. This is due to the buckwheat, a crop brought to Valtellina in the 16 th century. Resistant to cold climates, it has always been one of the fundamental foods of the Valtellina farmers’ diet. The flour made from it is, in fact, also at the base of two other typical dishes of the area: pizzoccheri and sciatt. Not considered particularly valuable in the past, buckwheat has regained popularity recently because of its nutritional properties. Gluten-free yet high in protein, it is considered a pseudo-cereal, like quinoa.
Polenta taragna: the secret
Pre-cooked, ready-in-no-time mixtures aren’t hard to find on the shelves of supermarkets. But the real secret of a delicious polenta taragna is in the prolonged cooking and the quality of the flours used. To make enough for six people, use a pot, preferably made of copper, and bring four quarts of salted water to a boil. Then pour in 2 pounds of a mixture comprising about two-thirds buckwheat and one-third cornmeal. The mixture must be poured in slowly and mixed with a whisk to prevent any lumps from forming. Once the mixture begins to have a certain consistency, switch to a wooden spoon and continue stirring, always in the same direction. After an hour or so over medium heat, a crust will form on the bottom and on the walls. It’s then time to add the other two ingredients. First 1 1/3 cups of butter, cut into small pieces. After about five minutes, when it is almost completely done cooking, add about 20 ounces of Casera cheese in chunks, also typical of Valtellina. Remove the polenta taragna from the heat before it has completely melted, and pour it onto a wooden cutting board. The perfect polenta taragna is obviously served piping hot as a main dish, accompanied by salami or sausage and, of course, a nice glass of red wine.
